HOIAN

Graceful, historic Hoi An is Vietnam's most atmospheric and delightful town. Once a major port, it boasts the grand architecture and beguiling riverside setting that befits its heritage, but the 21st-century curses of traffic and pollution are almost entirely absent. Whether you’ve as little as a day or as long as a month in the town, it’ll be time well spent.

Hoi An owes its easygoing provincial demeanour and remarkably harmonious old-town character more to luck than planning. Had the Thu Bon River not silted up in the late 19th century – so ships could no longer access the town’s docks – Hoi An would doubtless be very different today. For a century, the city’s allure and importance dwindled until an abrupt rise in fortunes in the 1990s, when a tourism boom transformed the local economy. Today Hoi An is once again a cosmopolitan melting pot, one of the nation’s most wealthy towns, a culinary mecca and one of Vietnam’s most important tourism centres.

This revival of fortunes has preserved the face of the Old Town and its incredible legacy of tottering Japanese merchant houses, Chinese temples and ancient tea warehouses – though, of course, residents and rice fields have been gradually replaced by tourist businesses. Lounge bars, boutique hotels, travel agents and a glut of tailor shops are very much part of the scene here. And yet, down by the market and over on Cam Nam Island you’ll find life has changed little. Travel a few kilometres further – you’ll find some superb bicycle, motorbike and boat trips – and some of central Vietnam’s most enticing, bucolic scenery and beaches are within easy reach.

When the best time to visit Hoi An

Typical for the tropical climate of Vietnam, Hoi An city possesses warm weather the whole year with its average temperature of 29 Degree Celsius. The city only has two main seasons: rainy and dry seasons instead of four seasons like in Northern Vietnam.

Hoi An’s dry season from February to May is the best time to visit the town, since its weather becomes very mild and beautiful with moderate temperature, low humidity, less rain and warm sunshine. For ones who enjoy sunbathing on famous beaches near Hoi An like Cua Dai Beach or An Bang Beach, delaying your trip to the end of May or beginning of June is recommended.

Getting There & Away

 Air

The closest airport is 45 minutes away in Danang.

Car & Motorbike

To get to Danang (30km), you can either head north out of town and join up with Hwy 1, or head east to Cua Dai Beach and follow the China Beach coastal road. Motorbikes charge about 140,000d for the trip to Danang. Taxis cost approximately 350,000d and are cheaper if you don’t use the meter but negotiate a price first.

A trip in a car to Hue starts from US$85 (depending on how many stops you plan to make along the way), while a half-day trip around the surrounding area, including My Son, is around US$50.

Bus

Most north–south bus services do not stop at Hoi An, as Hwy 1 passes 10km west of the town, but you can head for the town of Vinh Dien and flag down a bus there.

Open-tour buses are usually more convenient. You’ll find very regular connections to and from Hue and Nha Trang

The bus station, 1km west of the town Centre, mainly covers local routes. Buses to Danang (18,000d, one hour), Quang Ngai and other points leave from the northern bus station. Foreigners are routinely overcharged, they’ll usually be asked for 50,000d for the ride to Danang.

Go Travel Vietnam offers shuttle bus transfers between Hoi An and Danang airport and train station five times per day (80,000d, one hour).

Boat

Boat trips on the Thu Bon River can be a fascinating experience. A simple rowboat (which comes complete with rower) should cost about 70,000d per hour, and one hour is probably long enough. Some My Son tours include a return…

Taxi

For a metered cab, try Hoi An Taxi or Mai Linh.

Sights & Activities

 Tan Ky House

Built two centuries ago by an ethnically Vietnamese family, this gem of a house has been lovingly preserved through seven generations.

Look out for signs of Japanese and Chinese influences on the architecture. Japanese elements include the ceiling (in the sitting area), which is supported by three progressively shorter beams, one on top of the other. Under the crab-shell ceiling are carvings of crossed sabres wrapped in silk ribbon. The sabres symbolise force, the silk represents flexibility.

The interior is brightened by a beautiful detail: Chinese poems written in inlaid mother-of-pearl hang from some of the columns that hold up the roof. The Chinese characters on these 150-year-old panels are formed entirely of birds gracefully portrayed in various positions of flight.

The courtyard has several functions: to let in light, provide ventilation, bring a glimpse of nature into the home, and collect rainwater and provide drainage. The carved wooden balcony supports around the courtyard are decorated with grape leaves, which are a European import and further evidence of the unique blending of cultures in Hoi An.

The back of the house faces the river and was rented out to foreign merchants. Marks on one wall record recent flood heights, including the 1964 record when the water covered almost the entire ground level. There are two pulleys attached to a beam in the loft – in the past they were used for moving goods into storage, and today for raising furniture for safekeeping from the floods.

The exterior of the roof is made of tiles; inside, the ceiling consists of wood. This design keeps the house cool in summer and warm in winter.

Japanese Covered Bridge

This beautiful little bridge is emblematic of Hoi An. A bridge was first constructed here in the 1590s by the Japanese community in order to link them with the Chinese quarters across the stream.

The structure is very solidly constructed because of the threat of earthquakes. Over the centuries the ornamentation has remained relatively faithful to the original understated Japanese design. The French flattened out the roadway for their motor vehicles, but the original arched shape was restored in 1986.

The entrances to the bridge are guarded by weathered statues: a pair of monkeys on one side, a pair of dogs on the other. According to one story, many of Japan’s emperors were born in the years of the dog and monkey. Another tale says that construction of the bridge started in the year of the monkey and was finished in the year of the dog. The stelae, listing all Vietnamese and Chinese contributors to a subsequent restoration of the bridge, are written in chu nho (Chinese characters) – the nom script had not yet become popular.

While access to the Japanese Bridge is free, you have to surrender a ticket to see a small, unimpressive temple built into the bridge’s northern side.

Assembly Hall of the Fujian Chinese Congregation

Originally a traditional assembly hall, this structure was later transformed into a temple for the worship of Thien Hau, a deity from Fujian province. The gaudy, green-tiled triple gateway dates from 1975.

The mural on the right-hand wall depicts Thien Hau, her way lit by lantern light as she crosses a stormy sea to rescue a foundering ship. Opposite is a mural of the heads of the six Fujian families who fled from China to Hoi An in the 17th century.

The penultimate chamber contains a statue of Thien Hau. To either side of the entrance stand red-skinned Thuan Phong Nhi and green-skinned Thien Ly Nhan, deities who alert Thien Hau when sailors are in distress.

In the last chamber, the central altar contains seated figures of the heads of the six Fujian families. The smaller figures below them represent their successors as clan leaders. Behind the altar on the right are three fairies and smaller figures representing the 12 ba mu (midwives), each of whom teaches newborns a different skill necessary for the first year of life: smiling, sucking and so forth. Childless couples often come here to pray for offspring and leave fresh fruit as offerings.

Tran Family Chapel

Built for worshipping family ancestors, this chapel dates back to 1802. It was commissioned by Tran Tu, one of the clan who ascended to the rank of mandarin and served as an ambassador to China. His picture is to the right of the chapel.

The architecture of the building reflects the influence of Chinese (the ‘turtle’ style roof), Japanese (triple beam) and vernacular (look out for the bow-and-arrow detailing) styles.

The central door is reserved for the dead – it’s opened at Tet and on 11 November, the death anniversary of the main ancestor. Traditionally, women entered from the left and men from the right, although these distinctions are no longer observed.

The wooden boxes on the altar contain the Tran ancestors’ stone tablets, with chiselled Chinese characters setting out the dates of birth and death, along with some small personal effects. On the anniversary of each family member’s death, their box is opened, incense is burned and food is offered.

After a short tour you’ll be shown to the ‘antique’ room, where there are lots of coins for sale, and a side room full of souvenirs.

Quan Cong Temple

Founded in 1653, this small temple is dedicated to Quan Cong, an esteemed Chinese general who is worshipped as a symbol of loyalty, sincerity, integrity and justice. His partially gilded statue, made of papier-mâché on a wooden frame, is on the central altar at the back of the sanctuary. When someone makes an offering to the portly looking Quan Cong, the caretaker solemnly strikes a bronze bowl that makes a bell-like sound.

On the left of Quan Cong is a statue of General Chau Xuong, one of his guardians, striking a tough-guy pose. On the right is the rather plump administrative mandarin Quan Binh. The life-sized white horse recalls a mount ridden by Quan Cong.

Check out the carp-shaped rain spouts on the roof surrounding the courtyard. The carp is a symbol of patience in Chinese mythology and is popular in Hoi An.

Shoes should be removed when mounting the platform in front of the statue of Quan Cong.

Chinese All-Community Assembly Hall

Founded in 1773, this assembly hall was used by Fujian, Cantonese, Hainan, Chaozhou and Hakka congregations in Hoi An. To the right of the entrance are portraits of Chinese resistance heroes in Vietnam who died during WWII. The well-restored main temple is a total assault on the senses with great smoking incense spirals, demonic-looking deities, dragons and lashings of red lacquer – it’s dedicated to Thien Hau.

Assembly Hall of the Chaozhou Chinese Congregation

Built in 1752, the highlight in this congregational hall is the gleaming woodcarvings on the beams, walls and altar – absolutely stunning in their intricacy. You could stand here for hours to unravel the stories, but if you’re just popping by quickly, look for the carvings on the doors in front of the altar of two Chinese women wearing their hair in an unexpectedly Japanese style.

Handicraft Workshop

Housed in the 200-year-old Chinese trading house, the Handicraft Workshop has artisans making silk lanterns and practicing traditional embroidery in the back. In the front is your typical tourist-oriented cultural show (10.15am and 3.15pm) with traditional singers, dancers and musicians. It makes a sufficiently diverting break from sightseeing.

Ba Le Well

This square well’s claim to fame is that it’s the source of water for making authentic Cao Lau, a Hoi An specialty. The well is said to date from Cham times and elderly people make their daily pilgrimage to fill pails here. To find it, turn down the alley opposite 35 Ð Phan Chu Trinh and take the second laneway to the right.

Museum of Trading Ceramics

Occupies a simply restored wooden house and contains artifacts from all over Asia, with oddities from as far afield as Egypt. While this reveals that Hoi An had some rather impressive trading links, frankly it would take an expert eye to appreciate the display. However, the small exhibition on the restoration of Hoi An’s old houses provides a useful crash course in Old Town architecture.

Eating

Dining out in Hoi An is a delight. Central Vietnamese cuisine is arguably the nation’s most complex and flavorsome, combining judicious use of fresh herbs (which are sourced from organic gardens close by) with extraneous influence due to centuries of links with China, Japan and Europe.

While you’re here, be sure to try Hoi An specialties like the incredibly delicate and subtle “Banh Bao” or “White Rose”. “Cao Lau” is another unique dish. Other local specialties are fried “Hoan Thanh” (wonton) and “Banh Xeo”. Most restaurants serve these items, but quality varies widely.

Being such a cosmopolitan place, Hoi An is also blessed with myriad Western dining choices, including Parisian-style bakeries, delis, and Italian, Mediterranean, Japanese, Indian and tapas restaurant.

– Morning Glory Street: 106 Nguyen Thai Hoc Street

– Cargo Club: 107 Nguyen Thai Hoc Street

– Casa Verde: 99 Bach Dang Street

– Mango Mango: 111 Nguyen Thai Hoc Street

– Shree Ganesh Indian: 24 Tran Hung Dao Street

– Miss Ly Cafeteria 22: 22 Nguyen Hue

DANANG

Nowhere in Vietnam is changing as fast as Danang. For decades it had a reputation as a provincial backwater, but big changes are ongoing. Stroll along the Han riverfront and you’ll find gleaming new modernist hotels, apartments and restaurants are emerging. Spectacular new bridges now span the Han river and in the north of the city the landmark new D-City is rising from the flatlands. Venture south and the entire My Khe Beach strip has been set aside for five-star hotel developments. Oh, and for good measure, a revamped international airport opened in 2012.

That said, the city itself still has few conventional sightseeing spots, except for a very decent museum. So for most travellers, a day or two off the tourist trail enjoying the city’s restaurants and nightlife is probably enough.

Danang also makes a great base for day trips. The city is part of a long thin peninsula, at the northern tip of which is Nui Son Tra (called Monkey Mountain by US soldiers). China Beach and the five Marble Mountains lie southwest of the city.

When the best time to visit Danang

The best time to visit Danang is from February to May, when the skies are sunnier and humidity levels lower. The summer months of June through August can get uncomfortably hot and sticky with temperatures of 33-34°C. It can also get crowded during these months since this is the time of year that sees a lot of domestic travel.

If you’re visiting in the months of September to December expect to see a lot of rain (500-1000mm per month), so be sure to pack an umbrella.

Getting There & Away

 Air

Danang’s renovated international airport has Silk Air flights to Singapore and Siem Riep, Lao Airlines flights to Pakse, Savannakhet and Vientiane, and there are a few connections to China including a Dragon Air flight to Hong Kong. For domestic destinations, Jetstar Pacific and VietJet have daily flights from Danang to HCMC and Hanoi, while Vietnam Airlines operates direct flights to Hanoi, HCMC, Dalat, Nha Trang, Haiphong, Buon Ma Thuot, Pleiku and Vinh.

Please contact us to book flight ticket.

Car & Motorcycle

A car to Hoi An costs around 330,000d via your hotel or a local travel agency, while xe om will do it for around 120,000d. Bargain hard if you want to stop at the Marble Mountains or My Khe Beach en route.

Bus

Danang’s intercity bus station is 3km west of the city Centre. A metered taxi to the riverside will cost around 60,000d.

Buses leave for all major centers, including Quy Nhon (122,000d, six hours, six daily).

For Laos, there are three weekly buses to Savannakhet at 8pm (340,000d, 14 hours) and a daily service to Pakse at 6.30am (330,000d, 13 hours). Buses to the Lao Bao border alone are 128,000d (six hours); you may have to change buses at Dong Ha.

Yellow public buses to Hoi An (18,000d, one hour, every 30 minutes) travel along Bach Dang. However, foreigners are routinely charged 50,000d on this route, and sometimes extra for luggage.

Please contact us to book ticket.

Train

Danang’s train station has services to all destinations on the north–south main line.

The train ride to Hue is one of the best in the country – it’s worth taking as an excursion in itself.

Taxi

If you need a metered taxi, use Mai Linh Taxi (0511. 3565 656)

Cyclo

Danang has plenty of motorbike taxis (Xe Om) and cyclo drivers; as usual, be prepared to bargain. Trips around town shouldn’t cost more than 25,000d.

Sights & Activities

Museum of Cham Sculpture

This fine museum has the world’s largest collection of Cham artefacts, housed in buildings that marry French-colonial architecture with Cham elements.

Founded in 1915 by the École Française d’Extrême Orient, it has more than 300 pieces on display including altars, lingas, garudas, apsaras, Ganeshas and images of Shiva, Brahma and Vishnu – all dating from the 5th to 15th centuries.

The treasures come from Dong Duong (Indrapura), Khuong My, My Son, Tra Kieu and other sites.

Note that the museum’s organisation and English captions could be better, so it’s worth hiring a well-informed guide (or pick up one of the guidebooks at the museum shop).

There are also exhibits focusing on Cham culture today, with a handful of contemporary artefacts and photos of the Kate Festival (the Cham New Year).

Cao Dai Temple

This is the largest Cao Dai temple in Central Vietnam, serving about 50,000 followers. A sign reading van giao nhat ly (all religions have the same reason) hangs from the ceiling in front of the main altar. Behind the gilded letters is a picture of the founders of five of the world’s great religions: Mohammed, Laotse (wearing Eastern Orthodox–style robes), Jesus, a Southeast Asian–looking Buddha and Confucius (looking as Chinese as could be).

Behind the main altar sits an enormous globe with the Cao Dai ‘divine eye’ symbol on it. As with all Cao Dai temples, prayers are held four times a day, at 5.30am, 11.30am, 5.30pm and 11.30pm.

Danang Cathedral

Known to locals as Con Ga Church (Rooster Church) because of the weathercock on top of the steeple, the candy-pink Danang Cathedral was built for the city’s French residents in 1923. Today it serves a Catholic community of over 4000 – it’s standing room only if you arrive late.

Ho Chi Minh Museum

Despite its huge grounds, this museum is typically unenlightening for a site venerating Ho Chi Minh. At the front is a display of the usual US, Soviet and Chinese weaponry. Hidden behind the Party buildings are a replica of Ho Chi Minh’s house in Hanoi and a museum about him.

Phap Lam Pagoda

Recently rebuilt, this pagoda has three giant Buddha statues in the courtyard, and an equally imposing large gold one in the temple.

My Khe Beach 

My Khe is basically a suburb of Danang, while in the far south Cua Dai is widely considered Hoian beach. The area in between has been carved up among the likes of the Raffles, Hyatt and other five-star brands, with swanky beach resort under construction and leaving only a pitiful stretch of beach open to the public.

Marble Mountains (Ngu Hanh Son)

Just off the My Khe Beach coastal road, the Marble Mountains (Ngu Hanh Son) consist of five craggy marble outcrops topped with pagodas. Each mountain is named for the natural element it’s said to represent: Thuy Son (Water), Moc Son (Wood), Hoa Son (Fire), Kim Son (Metal or Gold) and Tho Son (Earth).

Nui Son Tra (Monkey Mountain)

Jutting out into the sea like a giant pair of Mickey Mouse ears, the Son Tra peninsula is crowned by the mountain that the American soldiers called Monkey. Grandly overlooking Danang to the south and the Hai Van Pass to the north, it was a prized radar and communication base during the war. Until recently it was a closed military area (and virtually untouched except for the port Cang Tien Sa), but new road and beach resorts are slowly opening.

Nam O Beach

Nam O Beach, 15km northwest of the city, was where the first US combat troops landed in South Vietnam in 1956. Today it’s reverted to a more humble form. There are a few hotels here, but the beach is not as attractive as those south of Danang.

Eating

Danang has a very lively street-food scene, and it’s hard to find a street in town that doesn’t have a resident “Bun Cha” (Barbecued pork), Rice or “Mi Quang” (noodle soup) stall. There are also some vegetarian eateries. The dining scene is flourishing, with a number of good restaurants popping up across town.

Waterfront: 150 Bach Dang Street, Riverfront lounge-cum-restaurant that gets everything right on every level. It works as a stylish bar for a chilled glass of NZ Sauvignon Blanc or an imported beer and also as a destination restaurant for a memorable meal (book the terrace deck for a stunning river vista). The menu is features imported meats, Asian seafood and also terrific ‘gourmet’ sandwiches.

Red Sky:248 Tran Phu Street, these casual bar-restaurant scores highly for Western grub, including good-value steaks, generous salads (US$7), chicken wings and Italian food. Happy hour (5pm to 8pm) is very popular. Staffs are attentive and welcoming and it’s air-conditioned.

Bread of Life: 4 Dong Da Street, Excellent American-style diner-cum-bakery with a good menu of burgers, Mexican food, sandwiches, pizza and pasta. A very good bet for brekkie; the bacon burrito really hits the spot. Run by deaf staff, proceeds go towards training activities for the deaf in Danang.

Café Truc Lam Vien: 37 Le Dinh Duong Street, Dine alfresco in a pretty garden courtyard or in one of the sleek wooden pavilions. Service is efficient and the menu, including local favourites such as mi quang , is available in English. The restaurant is a short walk from the Museum of Cham Sculpture.

Com Nieu: 25 Yen Bai street, A contemporary restaurant that offers a wide choice of tasty Vietnamese fare, including succulent seafood and the clay-pot rice signature dish.